Wild at Heart: Early Summer Cooking with Tart

As the days lengthen, the nights linger and the mercury rises, Lucy Carr-Ellison and Jemima Jones bring their inimitable cooking style to ANÍMA.

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By Maya Boyd

Lucy Carr-Ellison and Jemima Jones are the founders of Tart, the London catering studio, and Wild by Tart, their boundary-blurring yet genre-defining restaurant and retail space in Belgravia. Their cooking, however, is rooted not just in the city, but across a loose, sun-chasing circuit that drifts between Notting Hill, the hills of Andalusia and the salt-licked edges of the Balearics. The same names reappear, the same easy glamour, the same sense that lunch might stretch well into evening if no one intervenes.

They have been friends since their teens, and Tart grew out of that shared rhythm, “an instinct for how people want to gather when the mood is right,” as Lucy puts it. That instinct shapes everything.

“We always start with what’s in season and what’s looking best seasonal cooking at our local greengrocer or in the garden,” Jemima says. “That’s the starting point. From there, it’s about the flavour profile, whether we’re in the mood for something spiced, or perhaps classic and simple.”

“We always start with what’s in season and what’s looking best seasonal cooking at our local greengrocer or in the garden,” Jemima says. “That’s the starting point. From there, it’s about the flavour profile, whether we’re in the mood for something spiced, or perhaps classic and simple.”

Spring rarely waits for permission. “It always happens earlier than you expect,” Lucy says. “Spring begins to appear in February. Early blossom, bright rhubarb, birdsong…” Jemima picks up the thread. “Suddenly you find yourself craving something fresher, greener, cortisol balance with more texture and contrast. The heaviness of winter starts to lift, and you begin to bring that brightness back into your cooking.”

There is one signal they trust. “It has to be wild garlic. Surprising us every year with its seemingly early arrival. It brings such a generous bounty of leaves and flowers and always feels like the best gift from nature after the bleakness of winter.”

Image credit: Wild by Tart

What follows is a kind of restraint. “At the moment, it’s all about greens,” Lucy says. “Peas, asparagus, spring greens and soft herbs. Things that don’t need much doing to them, just a little olive oil or butter, lemon, and a pinch of sea salt.” Jemima is clear on the approach:

“Ingredients need to speak for themselves listening to your body. You don’t want to overcomplicate things that are already so good. We like to enhance with subtle spices and gentle layers of flavour at the most.”

Even now, before the heat fully settles, they look for contrast. “We love this moment in the season,” the duo agree. “The beauty of contrast. Something fresh alongside something a little more comforting. But even now, their focus turns toward what’s coming. “Tomatoes, always,” Lucy says. “There’s nothing quite like them when they arrive properly. Our last dinner would be a spaghetti pomodoro.”

There are quiet rediscoveries, too. “Radishes.” Jemima adds. “They’re incredibly versatile, delicious raw in salads, but also wonderful cooked. Last spring, we cooked them a lot over the barbecue. The leaves are good too.” Recently, it was “radishes with whipped feta and chilli, crunchy honey,” a dish that lingered for its simplicity and surprise.

Their tables follow the same logic. “Preferably outside in dappled light, summer rituals” Jemima says. “A linen tablecloth, cut wildflowers, vegetables cooked beautifully with delicious dressings and textures, barbecued fish, aioli, warm crusty bread, cold white wine, and rustic hand painted sharing plates and bowls.” It is ease without carelessness. “We like things to feel relaxed,” Lucy says, “but still thoughtful and considered at the same time.”

Cooking leans further into fire as the days stretch. “Lots of fire cooking at home,” they say. “Barbecue marinated meat or fish, perhaps with herby new potatoes, crunchy salads and dips.” Some things remain untouched year after year. “Steamed asparagus with butter, lemon and sea salt. Simple, and always perfect.”

For Aníma, the dish they chose holds all of this in place. “We love a generous burrata dish at this time of year,” they explain. “It feels fresh and vibrant, but still indulgent and a little luxurious. It’s a lovely way to showcase the first greens of the season.

By Maya Boyd

Lucy Carr-Ellison and Jemima Jones are the founders of Tart, the London catering studio, and Wild by Tart, their boundary-blurring yet genre-defining restaurant and retail space in Belgravia. Their cooking, however, is rooted not just in the city, but across a loose, sun-chasing circuit that drifts between Notting Hill, the hills of Andalusia and the salt-licked edges of the Balearics. The same names reappear, the same easy glamour, the same sense that lunch might stretch well into evening if no one intervenes.

They have been friends since their teens, and Tart grew out of that shared rhythm, “an instinct for how people want to gather when the mood is right,” as Lucy puts it. That instinct shapes everything.

“We always start with what’s in season and what’s looking best seasonal cooking at our local greengrocer or in the garden,” Jemima says. “That’s the starting point. From there, it’s about the flavour profile, whether we’re in the mood for something spiced, or perhaps classic and simple.”

“We always start with what’s in season and what’s looking best seasonal cooking at our local greengrocer or in the garden,” Jemima says. “That’s the starting point. From there, it’s about the flavour profile, whether we’re in the mood for something spiced, or perhaps classic and simple.”

Spring rarely waits for permission. “It always happens earlier than you expect,” Lucy says. “Spring begins to appear in February. Early blossom, bright rhubarb, birdsong…” Jemima picks up the thread. “Suddenly you find yourself craving something fresher, greener, cortisol balance with more texture and contrast. The heaviness of winter starts to lift, and you begin to bring that brightness back into your cooking.”

There is one signal they trust. “It has to be wild garlic. Surprising us every year with its seemingly early arrival. It brings such a generous bounty of leaves and flowers and always feels like the best gift from nature after the bleakness of winter.”

Image credit: Wild by Tart

What follows is a kind of restraint. “At the moment, it’s all about greens,” Lucy says. “Peas, asparagus, spring greens and soft herbs. Things that don’t need much doing to them, just a little olive oil or butter, lemon, and a pinch of sea salt.” Jemima is clear on the approach:

“Ingredients need to speak for themselves listening to your body. You don’t want to overcomplicate things that are already so good. We like to enhance with subtle spices and gentle layers of flavour at the most.”

Even now, before the heat fully settles, they look for contrast. “We love this moment in the season,” the duo agree. “The beauty of contrast. Something fresh alongside something a little more comforting. But even now, their focus turns toward what’s coming. “Tomatoes, always,” Lucy says. “There’s nothing quite like them when they arrive properly. Our last dinner would be a spaghetti pomodoro.”

There are quiet rediscoveries, too. “Radishes.” Jemima adds. “They’re incredibly versatile, delicious raw in salads, but also wonderful cooked. Last spring, we cooked them a lot over the barbecue. The leaves are good too.” Recently, it was “radishes with whipped feta and chilli, crunchy honey,” a dish that lingered for its simplicity and surprise.

Their tables follow the same logic. “Preferably outside in dappled light, summer rituals” Jemima says. “A linen tablecloth, cut wildflowers, vegetables cooked beautifully with delicious dressings and textures, barbecued fish, aioli, warm crusty bread, cold white wine, and rustic hand painted sharing plates and bowls.” It is ease without carelessness. “We like things to feel relaxed,” Lucy says, “but still thoughtful and considered at the same time.”

Cooking leans further into fire as the days stretch. “Lots of fire cooking at home,” they say. “Barbecue marinated meat or fish, perhaps with herby new potatoes, crunchy salads and dips.” Some things remain untouched year after year. “Steamed asparagus with butter, lemon and sea salt. Simple, and always perfect.”

For Aníma, the dish they chose holds all of this in place. “We love a generous burrata dish at this time of year,” they explain. “It feels fresh and vibrant, but still indulgent and a little luxurious. It’s a lovely way to showcase the first greens of the season.